Thumbnails

Slideshow (24 photos)

The Matrix: The Matrix Epic

The Matrix: The Matrix buttress at Avalanche Lake

The Matrix: Topo of a few routes at Avalanche Lake

3D: Traversing to the belay on the first pitch of 3D

Early morning light over Avalanche Lake

Joe and Will sitting on the ledge below the fin

Unknown: Will leading the leftmost crack on the fin (5.10+)

Sufferin' Succatash: Midway up one of the stellar chimney climbs, right of the rock route "3D"

A Usable Amount: Lots of hard routes on this wall. The most prominent yellow ice is "A Usable Amount", put up by Will

Gate Keeper: Joe on Gate Keeper, just left of the 2nd hitch-up-matilda; we bailed here due to delaminated ice

The Matrix: Matrix wall from high on Scott Decapio's route. Visible are Gold Rush, Fools Gold, and The Matrix. Way to the right are the hangers climbed by Alex Lowe

Matrix Direct, The Other One: My first try on leashless tools; I failed miserably, lowering off just after this point

Matrix Direct, The Other One: Bones gets established on the ice

Matrix Direct, The Other One: The Matrix with just enough ice to make it climbable

Matrix Direct, The Other One: Bones places a screw in the better ice

Matrix Direct, The Other One: View of the Matrix; the "other one" starts on the rock between the pines.

Matrix Direct, The Other One: At the top of the M7+ rock section

Matrix Direct, The Other One: High on the upper section

Matrix Direct, The Other One: Cranking through the initial overhanging crack

Matrix Direct, The Other One: Bones works out the moves on the initial overhanging crack

Gate Keeper: The route Gate Keeper (the thin ribbon on the left) as seen from De Capio's route

Unknown: Climbing a pillar on the east side of Avalanche Pass before one reaches the lake; the climb is broken into two parts -- the initial pillar to a ledge, then a rock overhang

Unknown: Bones climbs thin, poorly protected ice leading to a free-hanging ice column above

Tad's map of Avalanche Lake showing the routes

Keymaster: Jim climbs the first ascent of Keymaster, a mixed route just right of Gatekeeper (Copyright © Simeon Warner)